BUBBLE MAKING

This is the first time I start with the material exploration and adapt the unique material property to the furniture making. The biggest difference and challenge of this making process is that it requires a lots of tests. Everything is unsure and unpredictable. I need to explore the possibilities and causes of the problem while controlling variables.

There are five tests that I record below. You could “see” how the resin bubble was made by following me to go through all these process. 

Now, let’s start the journey!

left-solid and rigid/right-thin layer overlapped and soft

Due to the interesting material property of resin, it is soft and flexible when it is thin, it is rigid and stiff when it is thick. Since the thickness is controllable, I assume that I am able to control the softness and the hardness by changing the thickness of the resin.

TEST1: MATERIALS COMBINATION & MOLD RELEASE

Due to the time and money limit, I decide to CNC cut the foam to make two molds: inside mold and outside mold. Then I assemble the mold together and pour the resin into the mold. That’s the general idea of the making process.

I get two sheets of blue foam (polystyrene) and send them to CNC cut.

glue practise
Wax VS Release spray

The foam will be cut in slices by CNC machine, which means I need to glue them together. So, I think I’d better do some glue test first.

Another problem is, there are so many types of resin in the market. Some of them are rigid when they are thick, but fragile when they get thin. Some of them could be soft and resistant when they are thin, but are not hard enough to support the structure.

In that case, I have to either mix different types of resin by myself or find the one that gives a perfect balance.

I select three types of resin and give a test to see if the idea of material mixture could work. All resin is ordered from Smooth-On company. The SORTA-Clear™ 18 is premium water white translucent silicone rubbers (soft); the Clear Flex™ 50 is a water white clear urethane liquid rubber compounds (medium); the EpoxAcast™ 690 is a clear casting epoxy resin (rigid).

 

Top-Rigid

Middle

Bottom-Soft

Mold Release

690

50

18

Universal Mold Release

690

mix

50

Wax

690

mix

18

Universal Mold Release

50

mix

18

Wax

results

 

Top-Rigid

Middle

Bottom-Soft

Mold Release

Result

Reason Assumption

690

50

18

Universal Mold Release

Resin is rigid in the middle/ can not de-mold easily

Seems the density of 690 is larger so it tends to sink

690

mix

50

Wax

Foam melts and leaves a hole at 50 area

Temperature or chemical reaction (unsure)

690

mix

18

Universal Mold Release

Mold leaks at the bottom

Mold release might make the glue more likely to lose its stickiness

50

mix

18

Wax

Can not stick to each other

Seems that material combination is not possible

IMG_1406
in mold
IMG_3365
mold release(left) vs wax(right)

I use resin 50 as the testing material for the mold release test. I apply two layers with both of them. The outcome seems that under the same number of layers, wax creates a better result.

Conclusion

  • Material Mixture does not work – use single material by controlling the thickness
  • 18 is way too soft. (mold size: 1x1x5 inch)
  • Wax has a better outcome, compared to the release spray

TEST2: MATERIAL PROPERTY TEST

Top: 690  Middle: 325  Bottom: 50

(Wax as the mold release)

 

Material

Result

Reason

690

Foam is melted

The max thickness of 690 is ⅜ in, otherwise the temperature will melt the mold. 

325

Rigid, no flexibility at all

Epoxy has less flexibility compared to rubber.

50

Less material -Flexible

More material -Resistive

New problem: when the resin is curing, the heat will melt the wax. The wax will stick to the surface which makes the resin loses its transparency.

Conclusion

  • Wax is not appropriate. Go back to the release spray and try to apply multiple layers on the mold.
  • 50 is close to my expectation. (material determined)

TEST3: MOLD PROTECTION

I want to save some money, so I decide to use blue foam to make the mold. However, the blue foam creates tons of trouble. First, it is a porous material, which means the resin will not get a smooth surface in the mold. So, I need to paint or spray something on the foam to make the surface as smooth as I can.

Another thing is, the resin will create heat when it starts to cure. The more resin I pour into the mold, the more heat it will create during the cure time. It is important to either apply something on the mold to resist heat, or try to control and reduce heat (for example: pour the resin in a small amount by multiple times).

IMG_6777
IMG_5161

I apply a layer of gesso as the base to fill the porous surface, then I try three ways as the mold protection: top – shellac, middle- none, bottom-acrylic spray. Both shellac and acrylic spray could be used as sealing material.  

 

 

Base 

Sealing 

Mold release

Result

Reason

Mold 1

gesso

Shellac 

Universal Mold Release

 

Mold 2

gesso

None 

Universal Mold Release

 

Mold 3

gesso

Acrylic Spray

Universal Mold Release

The spray melts the foam

Chemical reactions

CNC Cutting- outside mold and inside mold

outside mold
inside mold sections-top view
inside mold

Once the resin is cured inside the mold, I need to find a way to take the inside mold out. That is why I slice the inside mold into small sections. Also, to make sure I am able to pull the section out, I insert wood dowels into the foam mold and use glue gun to secure them. 

For the outside mode, I add some wood blocks along the edge. Because the outside mold is divided into two parts so the cured resin could come out from the mold, there is a gap between two parts. The function of the wood block is to provide a surface for clamps to tighten the mold so the liquid resin will not leak through the gap.

Foam Mold Completed!!

Conclusion

  • Gesso could cover the porous foam and offer a better and smoother surface 
  • With or without shellac does not affect the outcome. However, the clear flex 50 will create heat that could up to 180 degrees F. The more material I pour, the higher the temperature will be. Shellac starts to soften at about 150 degrees F.
  • So, Gesso plus Mold release will work

TEST4: GAP FILLER TEST

wax vs hot glue

 

Filler 

 

Result

Reason

Wax

Gesso 

Gesso cannot work with wax. Cracks on the surface

Gesso is water soluble, while wax is waterproof. 

Hot glue

Gesso 

 

Seven layers of gesso on the mold.

Gesso could be sanded between layers to get a finer surface. 

Gesso takes 30 minutes to dry and be ready to sand. However, It need to be settled for 24 hours before applying anything contains oil



Conclusion

Section:

Application:

Status:

Casting material

Clear Flex 50

Confirmed

Mold -inside and outside

Blue foam

Confirmed

Mold protection

Gesso + Mold release

Confirmed

Gap filler

Hot glue

Confirmed

TEST5: RESIN LAMINATION TEST

To control the heat, I plan to reduce the amount of resin for pouring each time. However, there is a line between each layer and it is quite visible.

The pot life of resin 50 is about 25 min, and the cure time is 16 hours. However, it takes 2-3 days to completely settled and is not tacky on the surface (see the fingerprints on the surface). According to the suggestion from Smooth-On technician, I give 4 hours between two layers for testing.

Through the photo I upload above, you could see that the line is not visible from certain angles.

The reason of the appearance of the line: the resin will shrink during the curing process, the longer time I wait between layers, the more visible the line will be.

Methods to remove bubbles from resin- video from youtube

The vacuum chamber is a perfect method to remove bubbles from the liquid resin. But a vacuum chamber is expensive and I am broke. So, I try the hot water and it works fine.

Conclusion

  • Hot water(50 degrees C/ 12 min) works well
  • Pour the resin between 1 to 4 hours between each layer. (The more resin I pour in one time, the more heat the resin will create, and the faster the resin will cure)
Seven layers of mold release
Silicone to glue the two parts of the outside mold together and fill the gap
Clamp test

Final Project Starts!

all set
in hot water
jelly-like resin

Accident 1: Same process but different result- resin cures faster than expected. I assume that is because there is more resin in the bucket compared to my test. So, more heat is created in a short time, which cause a mixture of liquid resin and half-cured resin in the bucket.

Accident 2: the resin leaks from a crack on the foam mold. To ensure the two parts of the outside mold could combine to each other tightly, I use maybe too much strength on the clamp, which cause the crack. To fix the problem, I use the hot glue to cover the crack and stop the resin from leaking.

Accident 3: The amount of resin I poured is less than the amount I calculated on computer. It might because of the change of the thickness since I applied multiple layers of gesso on both inside and outside mold, or it might because of the jelly stuff I poured in the first time blocked in some place in the mold and created a cavity.

Accident 4: The good thing is, the resin cures successfully. The bad thing is, the mold cannot be pulled from the inside separately. The multiple-layered gesso, the hot glue filler, the pressure from the cured resin…all these elements could lead to this situation. I have to destroy the inside mold to take the foam out.

Because of the flexibility of the material, I decide to take the outside mold out first

Accident 5: Separation between layers. I assume that is because each time I pour the liquid resin into the mold, the resin will take away part of the mold release from the surface, which created a disconnection between layers.

So, I use the clear silicone in the photo I showed above as a glue and also the gap filler to fix the problem. Fortunately, it works well.

the final critique!

I hope I made the process clear and understandable to you. And I hope you enjoyed the reading. Now you know how to create a resin bubble from scratch.

A friendly suggestion from Yuya: a silicone mold could be expensive for a large scale object, but definitely create less trouble during the process. If you have money but do not have time, do silicone; if you have time but do not have money, try foam mold; if you have both time and money, wow, then you are a life winner and please do leave your name below so I could know you lol.

Information Resource/ Credit to:

  • Smooth-on Technical support
  • Bank Building technician-Warren Joe 
  • RISD 3d store faculties
  • Google and youtube
  • Help and advices from Anna and other classmates

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